揭開快時尚背後!《時尚過後》導演Jaak Kilmi親臨台灣
一條牛仔褲的代價!
影迷敲碗《朋友順啦》莊凱勛和藍葦華合作長片!
Uncover the Behind the Scenes in Fast Fashion: Director Jaak Kilmi of
Out of Fashion in Taiwan
The Cost of a Pair of Jeans Highly Anticipated Feature: Concrete Jail —— Kaiser Chuang’s
Collaboration with Weihua Lan
臺北市勞動局主辦的「2024臺北勞動影像嘉年華-臺北勞工影展」,其中開幕片的紀錄片《時尚過後》(Out of Fashion)首度在台登上大銀幕,由愛沙尼亞導演Jaak Kilmi執導,揭露全球快時尚產業下的勞動問題與環境破壞,深刻探討時尚界背後的剝削代價,正是因其開放性的結局,主辦單位表示,期待影迷在影展開幕時就帶著更多好奇心去探索更多在勞動環境中產生的各類議題,觀眾將在《時尚過後》看到快時尚產業的全球生產鏈中所埋藏的殘酷現實,導演Jaak Kilmi此次特地來台參與開幕式。
The opening film of the Taipei International Labor Film Festival held by the Department of Labor, Out of Fashion (2015), welcomed its premier in Taiwan.Directed by Jaak Kilmi, the documentary exposed the labor issues and environmental destruction within the global fast fashion industry, offering a profound insight into exploitation behind the fashion world. With the open ending, the festival gives room for curiosity to explore more issues discussed later on. In Out of Fashion (2015), audiences witness the harsh realities hidden within the global production chain of fast fashion. Director Jaak Kilmi has specially traveled to Taiwan to attend the opening ceremony.
紀錄片《時尚過後》放映後引起熱烈討論,熱情觀眾社群提問,更有影迷敲碗希望未來還有看到這部片的機會,該片揭示牛仔褲背後的隱藏代價——棉花田的農民生活水準低於聯合國貧窮門檻,而工廠中低薪童工在惡劣環境下工作,周邊河流因8000多種有害化學物質的排放污染嚴重,不止對健康造成極大威脅,穿上衣服的消費者也可能受害,引發各類過敏、氣喘等問題。
The Q&A session after screening has triggered heated discussions, with many reflections made and the audience wishing to rewatch it. The documentary reveals the cost behind a pair of jeans, that is, the living standards of cotton farmers in the fields are below the United Nations poverty line. In the factories, under-paid child laborers work under harsh conditions,while nearby rivers are heavily polluted by the discharge of over 8,000 harmful chemicals. This pollution not only poses a significant threat to the health of workers, but also endangers consumers who wear the clothes, potentially causing allergies and asthma.
談到拍攝過程中時,Jaak Kilmi表示:「追溯牛仔褲的生命週期時,重新審視時尚產業歷史,發現生產決策讓這個千億產業在浪費中繁榮。我們試圖訪問負責人並揭露生產鏈,但公司選擇對媒體保持沉默,最後只能自行追蹤生產流程,幸運地孟加拉找到一家工廠願意讓我們拍攝。」此外,Jaak Kilmi也提到,目前許多快時尚品牌聲稱將逐步走向「綠色環保」,但他認為這更多是宣傳手段:「大量用過和未售出的快時尚商品已成為無法解決的問題,紡織廢棄物成為社會環境負擔。」
When talking about the production, Jaak Kilmi shared “tracing the lifecycle of a pair of jeans and re-examining the history of the fashion industry reveals how our decisions have allowed this highly-profitable industry to thrive on waste. We attempted to interview the decision makers and uncover the production chain, but the companies chose to remain silent. We can only trace on our own, and fortunately, a factory in Bangladesh let us film.” In addition, Jaak Kilmi mentioned that many fast fashion brands have claimed to be green and eco-friendly, but he believes this is more of a marketing strategy. “The used and stocked items have become an unsolvable problem,with textile waste becoming a social and environmental burden.”
本屆勞工影展獲讚為「影癡福利大放送」,不僅囊括國際三大影展坎城影展、威尼斯影展和柏林影展的得獎和入選作品,勞動金像獎的作品更是讓觀眾看見勞工議題的廣度及深度。包含由莊凱勛和藍葦華主演《朋友順啦》、楊富江和高英軒主演《彈味中的嬰孩》,粉絲們直呼看不過癮,期待作品能夠發展成長片或戲劇,還有少見拍攝「水銲員」的水下作業紀錄片《深海銲將》,影迷在官方社群大讚:「勞工影展很讚!都是選近年的優質片。」
This edition of the Taipei International Labor Film Festival is a great reward to the filmaholics, with works selected or nominated in major film festivals,including Cannes, Venice, and Berlinale. The Labor Film Awards selection has also introduced the depth of “labor” that can be portrayed on screen,which includes Concrete Jail (2024) starring Kaiser Chuang and Weihua Lan,and Nhat Da (2023) starring Duong Phu Giang and Kao Ying Hsuan; both of which has received much praise from the audience, hoping for adaptation into a feature film or TV series in the future. As well as the rarely seen welder work in The Man Welding Underwater (2024). "It is amazing! The quality of the
program in recent years has been great," commented by film goers under the official social media post.
今年影展主題為「全城平權、從心出發」,希望透過多元影片帶領觀眾探討移工、藍領勞工及環境保護等議題,深入理解全球勞動挑戰。
The theme of the film festival this year is "Equal Rights for All, Starting from the Heart;" the goal is to guide the audience through topics on migrant workers, manual labor, and environment, providing a deeper understanding on labor challenges globally.